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been for -- this is -- florence is doe senior's sister-in-law. uh, when did y'all open up for us? 1930? >> florence signa: 1941. >> julia reed: '41. close enough. >> anthony: like a lot of folks around here, dominick "big doe" signa got his start selling hot tamales to go. in the beginning, the place catered to the black community. but after word got out how good the food was, white people started coming. which led to a kind of weird accommodation to the segregation of the day. blacks came in the front, white people snuck in the back. the menu expanded with the clientele. what human qualities are unique or marked in the native of mississippi? >> julia reed: i cannot address mississippi 'cause like i said, the delta is a whole 'nother planet. >> anthony: wow. okay, better question then. how does the lifelong delta resident differ from the other -- >> julia reed: you had to be a little crazy to wanna come in the first place, 'cause it was like the swamps, buddy. it was under water. i mean, you had to be crazy to come, and you had to have enough money to make it work.

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