if they were male and cute, he liked to help even more. chez panisse became nationally famous because james beard said it was, of the four restaurants in america he loved, this new place called chez panisse was one of them. well, then all hell broke loose, you know? >> sharon: the restaurant changed from the berkeley people to the wine people and then to, as someone said, the white patent-shoed people. >> andrew: it got a little bit away, i think, from what the original vision of that restaurant was for alice waters and a number of the other people involved with it. and it became a little grander, maybe for some of them, a little more intellectualized than they would've liked. it definitely became more expensive than they thought it would be. >> clark: alice and her egalitarian bohemia wanted to gather rosebuds as they lay and put them in a lovely dish and drizzle some honey on it and eat it. and jeremiah tower wanted to put on whites, have a glass of champagne, have his nostrils flare, you know, and have the spoons and the whisks at the ready.