Dancing Sufis in Khartoum. A movement to topple the despot Omar al-Bashir arose from their midst. A no-nonsense hero, 30-year-old Rami Ahmed lifts his T-shirt to show the long, jagged wound left on his chest by the bayonet of a Kalashnikov. It looks like a snake tattoo. Along with millions of Sudanese, Rami participated in protests in Khartoum in early April 2019 against President Omar al-Bashir, who ruled the country dictatorially for thirty years, clearly favoring the Islamists. The military struck back brutally. Rami escaped with two clean shots through the leg and a chest wound. What he says has the substance of a complaint, but not the tone. «Compared to the others, I'm doing fine.»