The surprisingly refined world of Las Vegas dining ••• If Las Vegas’ 110-year history was played out over a single day, the first decent restaurant would open shortly before midnight. Vegas went from a mining-boom service town to a mob-ruled vice den to a family holiday destination before Barack Obama’s favourite chef, Wolfgang Puck, opened Spago in 1992. Prior to this, top chefs had turned their nose up at this city of excess, with its themed casinos, chintzy shows and visitors who seemed content to shovel down bottomless buffets. A Michelin-starred chef opening a restaurant there was a bit like Radiohead accepting a residency at Excalibur.