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At nine o’clock on a recent Monday morning, Lu Chen, the slender and polite lead singer of Top Floor Circus, the first rock band to sing in Shanghainese—and a man whose transformative stage persona sees him swearing, stripping nearly naked, and engaging in exaggerated comedic role-playing—met me in a bookstore at 50 Moganshan Road, in what’s become, in the nearly twenty years

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