Wine wisdom suggests Aligote is boring. But this refreshing $18 California version is anything but In the latest Wine of the Week, critic Esther Mobley recommends winemaker Jim Clendenen's delicious Aligote FacebookTwitterEmail Welcome to Wine of the Week, a new series in which Chronicle wine critic Esther Mobley recommends a delicious bottle that you should be drinking right now. Last week, she highlighted a briny, oceanic Pinot Gris from Santa Cruz. Check for a online every Wednesday. When people talk about white wines from Burgundy, it’s assumed that they’re talking about Chardonnay, the French region’s signature white grape variety. But there’s a second, lesser-known and lesser-grown white grape in Burgundy, called Aligote. It may be the wine world’s most beautiful afterthought.