Stay updated with breaking news from ரிச்சர்ட் ஶ்மிட். Get real-time updates on events, politics, business, and more. Visit us for reliable news and exclusive interviews.
Ciencia del surf: depende del clima; lo define el océano PorAP ICHINOMIYA, Japón (AP) — El debut del surf en los Juegos Olímpicos está dejando claro que estos domadores de las olas son también maestros sin título en ciencias —en climatología, meteorología y oceanogafía, para ser exactos. Los cazadores profesionales de olas son por definición fanáticos de las ciencias atmosféricas porque pocos deportes —o quizá ninguno— dependen tanto de una variable tan incontrolable: el clima. Y pocos se definen en una cancha tan dispareja literalmente, el océano. Se sabe que los surfistas estudian a detalle todos los factores relacionados.
El debut del surf en los Juegos Olímpicos está dejando claro que estos domadores de las olas son también maestros sin título en ciencias —en climatología, meteorología y oceanogafía, para ser exactos. Los cazadores profesionales de olas son por definición fanáticos de las ciencias atmosféricas porque pocos deportes —o quizá ninguno— dependen tanto de una variable tan incontrolable: el clima. Y pocos se definen en una cancha tan dispareja literalmente, el océano. Se sabe que los surfistas estudian a detalle todos los factores relacionados. “Cada vez que el viento sopla, ¿en qué dirección lo hace?”, preguntó Owen Wright, de 31 años, quien compite por Australia. “No sólo miramos el clima y decimos: ‘¡Oh, esta agradable y soleado!’, porque puede ser que sepamos que (el viento) está probablemente frente a la costa. Nunca decimos simplemente: ‘¡Oh, está lloviendo!’ Siempre todo tiene que ver con la forma en que luce la marea”.
Surfing science: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean sandiegouniontribune.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from sandiegouniontribune.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.
Surfing science: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean sfgate.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from sfgate.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.
Surfing for gold: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean wdtn.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from wdtn.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.
Surfing for gold: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean wreg.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from wreg.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.
Ciencia del surf: depende del clima; lo define el océano sandiegouniontribune.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from sandiegouniontribune.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.
Surfing science: Dependent on weather, defined by the ocean timesunion.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from timesunion.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.
Diane Boit: Thousands inspect Holstein farms at New Salem, 1921 bismarcktribune.com - get the latest breaking news, showbiz & celebrity photos, sport news & rumours, viral videos and top stories from bismarcktribune.com Daily Mail and Mail on Sunday newspapers.
TOKYO — Surfing is as much skill and science as instinct and timing. That begins with learning how to read ocean swells to anticipate the formation of the wave to quickly execute a maneuver. Here, we explain what you need to know about surfing to appreciate its Olympic debut at the Tokyo Games this month. LEARN THE LINGO Surfing has its own language, and the first thing you need to know about surfers is that they have a lot of popular phrases to convey their excitement and enthusiasm for a good ride. Advertisement Stoked. Frothy. Gnarly. Sick. Rad. Waves are created by the way the swells interact with the bottom contours of the ocean, called the break. Beach breaks — like the Olympic site at Tsurigasaki beach — happen because of sandbars, which can shift over time or due to storms. Point breaks are made against a point of land, such as a jetty. Reef breaks are often further out in the ocean.