place is. people are genuinely happy to see you. this is hanoi's old quarter, but it's looking less and less old these days. it's changed. irish/czech theme pub next door. vietnam is a young country. almost half the vietnamese are under the age of 30. fewer every year even remember what they call here the american war. those years were defining time for just about everyone, vietnamese or american, who lived through them. and though there are still a lot of conflicted feelings back home, for most vietnamese these days, the war has become an abstraction, not even a memory. vietnam is still a poor nation, but the standard of living has improved a lot with the relaxing of hard line commune it economic policies. more and more foreign tourists