literally was watching a superstar in his stature, in how he spoke with people and i just remember globs of people that wanted to try and get to him, you know, and then he would disappear into the kitchen, and then you kind of saw him doing this and doing that. >> clark: he was the first kind of chef in america to do something truly flat out self promotional. he was a part of that dewar's ad. he was a dewar's profile. this is about fabulous people and their fabulous lives and this is their scotch. and this was a chef? before this, you know, if you were a chef, your mom didn't tell anybody. >> ruth: it's the place where the chef and the restaurateur start trading places. >> anthony: you know, in the old days, you didn't know who the chef was. the chef was a servant. >> john: he was becoming a really well-known personality. >> ken: i think what he really got was the idea that a restaurant is a work of art. it's a piece of art.
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