From Britannia Unleashed to Operation Capstone In an edition of The Evergreen, a new season in the north, a contributors charts the gentrification of the Old Town of Edinburgh by smell. The pong of cheap aftershave from the mobs of endless Stag parties frequenting the strip clubs of the West Port mingled with the aroma of coffee which wafted out of the endless cafes serving lattes, frappuccinos and flat-whites and servicing the bland but ever-caffeinated new global culture. These scents of embourgoisement had replaced the old smells of the capital: pubs, soot and the waft of hops that used to float across the city from the giant brewing district at Fountainbridge.