Traci Des Jardins leaves the city behind with her new Cal-Me

I’ve read only half way through El Alto’s list of platos fuertes (main dishes) when a petite woman sidles up to my table, her curly hair tied back in a messy bun, a camo mask over her face.“Hi, I’m Traci,” she says nonchalantly, as if she’s not a two-time James Beard Award winner; as if she’s not th...

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