Where to Find New York’s Top Pandemic Pizzas Critic Ryan Sutton reviews the pie offerings at Loring Place, Il Buco Alimentari, Peasant, Momofuku Ko, and Black Seed Share this story The great pandemic pizza pivot is upon us, which is why gourmands might encounter a ranch-and-barbecue sauce pie at a tasting-menu venue, a green chorizo pizza at a heralded Italian spot, or a chimichurri-topped pie at a hip bagel shop. One wouldn’t fault cash-strapped operators for running illegal sports betting rings in the second year of a pandemic, so creative adaptations on a quintessential New York foodstuff shouldn’t feel like too much of a surprise.