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In the summer of 1894, China and Japan were at war and battling for hegemony over the Korean Peninsula. Somewhat ironically, Korea, at the time, was often referred to as “The Land of the Morning Calm.”
There has always been something magical about the East Sea. In the 19th century it was the hunting grounds for Western whalers. In Korean legend it was the domain of water ghosts and mermaids. And in modern history it was the final stage for the 1904-05 Russo-Japanese War. Many years ago, it was my favorite place to get away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. Of course, during the summers, finding a place of peaceful solitude was nearly impossible as the beaches were filled with frolicking families, mischievous schoolboys and the occasional military patrol.
Hwaeom Temple, located in Gurye, South Jeolla Province, is arguably one of the most beautiful temples in Korea. The temple was first established in 544 and enjoys a long history filled with destruction, reconstruction and renovations. It is filled with officially designated Treasures and National Treasures and it is unsurprisingly one of Dale Quarrington’s favorite temples. According to him, “It’s not every day that you’re in awe of a building or even a stone structure, but it’s not every day that you visit Hwaeom Temple.'
Early Western accounts of Korea often portray women as meek, subservient and hidden away from view of all males except their husbands, fathers and brothers. A Korean woman was expected to obey, without deviation, every whim of the males in her life and in some cases to follow them into death. These characterizations of Korean women were made by both male and female foreign observers, and, although there was some truth to them, they were generalizations that did not distinguish between social status, class and location. Not all Korean women were docile; many – especially the royal family – wielded influential power and, according to some observers, manipulated politics.
Unless you have lived in Korea for a long time, you are probably unaware of Son-dol Day, which occurs every year on the 20th day of the 10th month of the lunar calendar. This year it falls on December 3.
On Nov. 21, 1896, a large crowd gathered to witness the laying of the cornerstone of the Independence Arch, a symbol of Korean independence. According to the English version of The Independent - a newspaper published in Seoul:
On Nov. 21, 1896, a large crowd gathered to witness the laying of the cornerstone of the Independence Arch, a symbol of Korean independence. According to the English version of The Independent - a newspaper published in Seoul: