where they tried the make a last stand. in the end, though, the violence was too much. under siege and outgunned, the rebels caved in and agreed to talk. they're just out of sight at the end of that road. the syrian army wouldn't allow us in, but they do allow the women out to get medical care and to shop for food. like, what's changed? "now there are formal negotiations going on with the havernment," they tell me. "life has improved. the siege has ended and our electricity and water are back." supplies are flowing in, too, though every single box is checked by the military. and every canister of gasoline probed for hidden weapons. but now what? in december, six bus loads of rebels and their families struck a deal for safe passage out of al-waar to an opposition area further north. that leaves about 1,000 left.