above lake safraqieyh, qardaha salutes its native sons, president bashar al assad and his father hafez, the previous strong man and president. he's now buried above the town in this elaborate tomb. "we glorify him," maysam ahmed tells me, "because he built modern syria." qardaha's loyalty to the assad's is based in their shared allawite religion. hundreds of young men from here volunteered to fight in syria's grinding war. four years in these are the faces of those who won't come back. syrian television occasionally broadcasts emotional coverage of soldiers' funerals. and this choreographed meeting between first lady asma assad and dead men's mothers. but how many have fallen? the government won't say. so we asked the people of qardaha. are there any martyrs in your family?