♪ around 400 years ago, a spanish nobleman set sail for the new world. his name? lorenzo longoria. my ancestor's arrival, along with millions of others through is centuries, changed history, creating modern mexico and a gateway between it and the rest of the world. this is the cradle of mexico, everything started here. it's also the cradle of mexican gastronomy, because all ingredients landed in this spot, and all the ingredients from mexico left from here. chocolate, vanilla, the tomato. can you imagine italian cuisine without the tomato, or french pastries without chocolate and have a vanilla vanilla? impossible. the people here created a whole new cuisine. wow. i'm eva longoria, born and bred in texas, with mexican-american roots, which makes me a texican. i'm exploring mexico to see how the people, their lands, and their past have shaped a culinary tradition as diverse as its 32 states. the port's strategic position saw them fight off repeated invasions right into the 20th century. but this history of conflict, from indigenous power struggles to african slavery, created a cultural big bang. with a legacy of strong flavors -- oh, my god -- pioneered by strong women. every time that i listen, you cannot, and my mom was like, yes, i will. >> i will. they are famous for their defiant spirit. >> we're known as -- >> matched only by a lust for life. oh, so don't forgoat pack your dancing shoes. ♪ this is the exact spot my 13th great-grandfather landed, right here in the port of veracruz from spain. he was 11 years old, so, it's kind of amazing i'm walking in his footsteps right now, and i'm going to discover the diversity that veracruz has to offer. only 60 miles wild, veracruz stretches some 400 miles along the gulf coast. these warm waters are home to around 120 species of fish. but fishermen have been selling just five of them, bringing them close to extinction. now, an award-winning chef is campaigning to cast the net wider. hola! >> eva! >> this is a beautiful restaurant. eric left mexico city's world famous restaurants to return home on a one-man mission to transform the fishing industry in veracruz. so, this was caught this morning? and what type of fish is this? okay. i know it's not the prettiest thing, but eric's not one to judge by appearances. it's a lazy fish. >> exactly. >> why do you care so much? what are we going to make with the fish? oh, i love ceviche. what's the name? his mouth. also known as sailor's grunt, this guy might not be an obvious choice, but it's got eric's vote. look at that. it's beautiful. doesn't even smell like fish. a little onion and jicima. i love that, it gives a crunch. okay. a drizzle of lemon oil. what? i love frijoles in anything. but are they hot? some avocado and dressing. oh, that's so beautiful! okay. and we're done. do i just scoop it or what happens? >> exactly. >> oh my god. this has changed my life. i'm now going to make this forever. this is amazing. for me, the contrast of hot beans with cold ceviche is a revelation. and who would have thought those ugly fish could taste so exquisite? but apparently there's more. these are soft cell crabs? but this is the -- these blue crabs must be caught just before they shed their exoskeleton and then cooked straight after while they're still soft. oh, my god. oh, look at that. that's gorgeous. so, that goes first? soft shell crabs thrive in warm waters of the gulf, making them an easy catch. not a bad thing, from where i'm standing. oh, purple onion. chile. chile limon. it wouldn't be mexican if there wasn't chile limon. it's so crispy! wow. that's a great combination with the crab. so refreshing. what do you want the world to know about the cuisine of veracruz? eric's passion for cooking with every type of fish from veracruz makes him a hero in my book, and i'll drink to that. ♪ i love coffee. and it came to mexico via -- yep, veracruz. it arrived here from the caribbean in the 18th century, before passing on throughout latin america. i enjoy it best with friends. like actress anna. >> i'm so excited that you're here. >> i can't believe it. this is a crazy busy place. this is said to be mexico's oldest cafe, and one of anna's favorite haunts. so, veracruz is super special to you. >> yes, i was born here, and my family's still here. >> what does the rest of mexico think of veracruz? >> we're known as -- i guess that we're prankers and always -- [ bleep ]. so, we are known because of our sense of humor. we are very good at dancing. >> everything started here. >> exactly. exactly. a lot of things happened here. the coffee, that's why coffee, the first place. >> hi. >> oh, my god. okay. >> exactly. >> yay! oh, that was fast. >> that's leche. you can tell him how much milk. >> yeah, yeah, yeah. >> this is so fun. ringing the glass with a spoon is a tradition that started way back in the late 19th century. when tram drivers in the port rang their bells to order a coffee as they passed. >> is it good? >> oh, my god. >> i really recommend you to go to the coffee field. >> where are they, in the mountains? >> in the mountains. >> i'm definitely going to go see the coffee fields. that's like top of my list. well, you don't need to tell me twice. this is so beautiful. after coffee arrived here, veracruz took it inland to cultivate it, where it flourished before exporting it back to the rest of the world. this landscape is amazing. i don't feel like i'm in mexico. i feel like i'm in an amazon rain forest. today, veracruz produces around a quarter of mexico's coffee, which thrives in the shade and altitude of mountain areas. the cooler temperatures up here slow the growth of the beans, making them sweeter and more dense. and the denser the bean, the better the flavor. h hola. >> hola, eva. nice to meet you. >> my guide is passionate about these coffee fields, and supporting local women in agriculture. >> this is the plant -- >> oh, my god, look at this. is this a bean? oh, i found one already. >> yes. >> in the 1990s, coffee prices plummeted, driving farmers to the u.s. in search of work and leaving many women behind to fend for themselves. >> a lot of men, they went to the north and this coffee fields were -- >> abandoned. >> yes, abandoned. and then the women, they said, what we do? we go or we stay on our land. we grew coffee. and this kind of coffee is very interesting, because we have, like, a lot of flowers that we're going to cook today. >> we're going to eat the flowers? >> yes. >> oh, okay. >> these are the flowers of san lorenzo. >> oh. >> so, maybe you can cut -- >> okay. oh, lord. i hate when it's, like, the high pressure. there's one plant. how long does it take to grow? >> like one year. >> oh, just a year. okay. down here? >> yes, yes. >> perfect. >> but the coffee isn't the only thing full of flavor around here. apparently these shade grown flowers are also delicious. and we're going to cook them in a stew. it might not seem an obvious combination -- but as well as being packed with vitamins, the sweetness of these petals enhance the flavor of the tomato, onion, and garlic broth. and helps thicken the stew. oh, that's beautiful. it will be served alongside a salsa made with the san lorenzo flower i picked. and some palm flowers dipped in a light batter and fried till crisp. >> vamos? >> vamos. oh, my god. look at these little petals. oh. you can feel the fragrant from the petals. i love that. to me, the palm flower fritter has a sweet and sour zucchini taste. oh, the tex sure. i love this texture. the women here might have been left to fight for survival, but i think their resourcefulness has led to a wonderful way of cooking, and it's also given them strength and stature. just like the flowers of the coffee fields. oh, my gosh, this is so good. c'mon, we're right there. c'mon baby. it's the only we need. go, go, go, go! ah! touchdown baby! -touchdown! are your neighbors watching the same game? yeah, my 5g home internet delays the game a bit. but you get used to it. try these. they're noise cancelling earmuffs. i stole them from an airport. it's always something with you, man. great! solid! -greek salad? exactly! don't delay the game with verizon or t-mobile 5g home internet. catch it on the xfinity 10g network. ♪ >> i love that the church bells is "la bamba." i grew up listening to "la ba bamba," but i had no idea the roots of the song go back to the enslaved africans that were brought to veracruz. they blended with those of the indigenous people, as well as the spanish, like my ancestors. and today, neighborhoods around the port reflect this unique mix of cultures. hola! >> welcome to veracruz. >> i'm meeting with a food historian. she's written a book on local cuisine, and is my guide. the impact of african culture on this region. but even at the peak of the slave trade, there was resistance. in 1631, a group of rebel slaves won the right to live as free people in their own region. it was a small but significant victory, given it would take another two centuries before slavery ended in mexico. so they're both roots. >> yes. >> africans missed the yams of their homeland, but discovered the similar latin american yucca. since then, it's been used in different dishes, such as crispy fried yucca. >> then i'm momma frijoles. of course, it goes without s saying that plantain fritters are also on the menu. introduced by the spanish, the trees provided shade for valuable crops like coffee. the leftover fruit was used to feed enslaved communities. we smash them and then we're going to put them back in the oil. okay. back in the pan they go. they're like potato chips. you can't eat just one. wow. >> this blend of african, indigenous, and spanish influences extends from veracruz's cooking to the music of the fandango. which originally was a form of protest music. and i find the passion and rebellion it conveys contagious. let's face it. i'm not one to stand by and watch. this seductively feisty culture shouts resistance. the veracruz way. ♪ so, i've traveled north from the port of veracruz to the region where vanilla originates. this is where the plant is from. i'm so excited, i'm probably the biggest fan of vanilla. i've been looking forward to this moment for a long time. they say good things come to those who wait, and the prized vanilla bean from veracruz is definitely one of those things. i don't think i've ever seen so many vanilla beans in one place. >> yeah, from mexico, the best aroma. >> i've been invited here by norma, who mexico's oldest vanilla farmer. and she's the first woman to take charge of the business. so, if have a anything la's endemic so mexico, is mexico the number one producer. >> no. >> turns out that madagascar produces about 80% of the world's vanilla. but guess what? it was veracruz that gave it to them. >> it's more expensive than madagascar. >> because it's the best? >> yes, of course it's the best. and now here, you can see how they are taking care of each vanilla bean. you cut each? >> each bean, just to be sure. >> it can get infected with something? so, she has to cut the tip off. wow. very labor intensive. and that's just the tip of the have vanilla bean. wait until you hear what it takes to create it in the first place. this is the vanilla plantation. >> just this one? native to the north of veracruz, the havanilla plant was only pollinated by bees, when it was discovered you could do the same job by hand. i never knew they were vines. i thought it was a bush, a plant. vanilla comes from the seed pods of an orchid. the flower has to be pollinated within a few hours, or it will die. >> the vanilla plant is like a woman, so, if you want to pollinate, you need to speak very lovely and then open it. and you are going to take out the pollen. >> okay. >> from the male and put it inside of the female. >> so, we're impreg nating the woman. >> yes. >> and then, you need to wait nine months in order to make the crop. >> like a baby. >> yes. >> oh, you know -- what happened? oh, lord, okay. >> here, you see? you need to open -- >> i open this part right here? >> yeah. >> i need glasses. >> yeah. >> i'm not breathing. and that's the male right there? >> yeah. so, you need to open it. >> okay. i don't want to [ bleep ] up the vanilla bean. okay. okay. here we go. >> yes. there is the pollen. put it down and push it. >> that's it? did i make a vanilla baby? >> yes. feel like we need a glass of wine. >> yeah. >> yay! we did it. >> so, the people need to do it, like, 5,000 per day, something like that, for one month. >> that's so stressful. you have to do that with all of these flowers? >> yeah. >> that's amazing. i'm happy i'm only doing one. this process makes vanilla one of the most expensive spices in the world. worth nearly its weight in gold. >> this is the family house. >> oh, this is so beautiful. >> we are going to cook chicken with vanilla. it's very typical dishes in the family. >> and here it is. here's the bean. >> yes. a >> and what this is? >> it's the thick, butter-like cream that forms on the top of milk after it's been boiled. >> this is a typical ingredient. >> and do we put the vanilla in here? >> yes. >> now we're talking. it's like gold. >> yes, black gold. >> mmm. that's amazing. i put it in here? >> yes. >> so vibrvibrant. just that small amount. and have a nice la extract. >> uh-huh. >> and this is yours, from the vanilla bean? >> yes, yes. >> now, we add braised onions to this hot, creamy menixture. >> wow. >> ready. >> okay, now we go to blend it? >> yeah. >> because this is going to be the sauce of the chicken? flavoring savory dishes with vanilla is a thing around here. i've never had chicken with vanilla. inspired by norma's great-grandfather's recipe. the sauce is added to chicken pieces gently sauteed in butter. so, what was it like growing up in a vanilla family? >> it was very interesting, because my love for the vanilla began with the vanilla growers, and i notice that the women was not part of them. >> of the process, of jobs. >> it's just for men. >> so, you have brothers? >> yes. >> they're not in the business? >> they are not. i'm in charge of everything, because when i grow up, all the words is, you cannot do it. you cannot do it. >> because you're a woman. >> i'm a woman, uh-huh. so, every time that i listen, y you cannot, in my mind -- >> i will. >> eva, the plate is ready. >> now that all the flavors have had a chance to marry, tiny pieces of vanilla are sprinkled on top. >> you have to be sparing with it. how is that? >> it's great. >> we'd evened a ha ee eed a ad has to the sal laid dressing. oh, that's refreshing. >> this is my son and my father. >> okay, let me try this dish that i've never had before. >> it's good. >> oh, my god. mmm. everybody has to eat this when we're done. the finale to this incredible day is dessert. bananas doused in the homemade vanilla licly core. this looks beautiful. gracias. look at this ice cream. just melting. wow. thank you so much for today. what an experience. >> thank you. >> i was so excited. i've been such a fan of vanilla, now i know everything about it. and i've impreg nated a vanilla bean. i'm a proud parent. ♪ so, this is el tajin. this place was inhabited by a civilization and they were very prosperous. you can tell just by the ruins. there's many buildings dedicated to ceremonies and rituals. it extends forever. over 1,000 years ago, way before any spanish arrived, two civilizations vied for supremacy in veracruz. the aztecs and the -- up here in the north, they prevailed. set between two large streams that flow to the river, el tajin was perfectly shielded from attack and is one of the best preserved pre-hispanic cities in mexico. this strategic advantage was key to the survival of the people. and this particular culture is still practicing their rituals and ceremonies today. hola. my host founded smoke women, a group that keeps ancient traditions alive, while also supporting local women. okay. smoke has always been integral to the culture. it's used in preserving food and also in cooking rituals. a shot of moonshine keeps the devil away. okay. okay. el tajin's parea different just provide protection, but fed the people, providing these shimp, that we're going to eat. just so you all know, nature doesn't lie. they are the star ingredient of a traditional stew. recipes is foraged from the local area, like these mushrooms, which are crushed to make the filling for the empanadas. wow. so beautiful. a few minutes on the heat -- and our feast is ready. mmm. okay. she sucked the head. okay. let's have this mushroom empanada. crispy. oh. little spicy. it tastes very -- smoke preserves, but it can also change to fit the shape of the space. and from what i've seen, they also know how to adapt. maybe it's that attitude and resilience that's the secret to her success. hola! gracias. >> aren't you hungry? >> yes. >> want to join me? >> yes. i'm always hungry. i'm so excited to meet luieu pam yare rose. there's someone special he wants me to meet. >> i'm going to introduce you to one of the most important traditional cooks here. it's dona rosie amazing person and amazing cook. >> dona rosie's specialty, a stuffed jalapeno. >> teach me how to cook the chili. it's a mixture between two cultures. the mexican one and the spanish. >> yet another of veracruz's culinary gifts to the world, the famous jalapeno originated here in jalapa. 60 miles inland from the port, the capital city is nestled in lush, fertile landscape. jalapeno peppers have been cultivated here since the time of the aztecs. >> just eat. >> just dig in? >> just eat. >> what's inside of it? what's the filling? >> it's many ingredients. it's tomato, it's rice. >> mm. >> i know this is beautiful because it's a traditional way. but i'm going to introduce you to my version. >> i don't know if you can top dona rosie's, i don't know. >> to create a modern of version, we need a suitably modern space. the vibe is stripped back and simple. i suspect the food will be anything but. >> this is what's going to go insidehe chili? >> yes, inside the chili. >> he explores different african influences like fried plat taken. >> raisins, that's very spanish. >> he combines with capers and herbs for the fillings. >> on fire! >> yeah, of course. >> mm, you can smell that alcohol mixed with the plantains. it makes the plantains explode. >> exploded, yeah. >> as a tribute to tradition, luis smokes the filling for 12 to 16 hours. thank god he's got one ready. it smells amazing. you can smell every single spice. there's not one that overpowers the other. >> oh my god, guys, i don't want to brag but mine is perfect. the other. >> god, look at that. it's like the mexican flag . that's so beautiful. i need my phone. thank you. but it's not just the food at this restaurant. even the drinks are smoked. oh, this is so beautiful. smoked aperol. stanley tucci has to see this. salud, gracias, mm. si. mm. this is amazing. this is quite different from this morning, but at the same time, very, very familiar and definitely nods to the traditional way you make chili relenno. >> just as my roots in veracruz go back hundred of years, so do the origins of every recipe. fighting for the freedom to create something new has also been a cornerstone of their rich history. and with that kind o

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